Visiting Istanbul and living in Istanbul are two wildly different things. It’s clear that the tourism industry is designed to extort the maximum amount of money from visitors. And while that most certainly affects the cost of living, there are areas in Istanbul that feel much more relaxed and residential, with less price gouging and light-but-persistent harassment from local restaurateurs and shopkeepers. So for the purposes of this writing, I will focus on the time I spent in residential neighborhoods that are less of a tourist circus.
Atmosphere
Istanbul feels a lot like many large European cities with more beautiful architecture and more flavor. It feels like there’s always more noise and more happening around you. Markets are crowded, trams are crowded, restaurants get busy and loud, and there’s a general air of life pretty much everywhere. Despite the fact that Muslims make up more than 90% of the population, the city actually feels progressive. There are even a bunch of gay bars and cafes around Taksim Square, although it’s definitely not as progressive or gay-friendly as I’m used to or prefer. Café culture is very much alive even in the dead of winter, especially with respect to young people. I also love that Istanbul is surrounded by water. There’s something quaint about seagulls stopping by when you’re having lunch and being able to take a ferry as a form of transportation.
People
People in Istanbul are by nature very hospitable. It’s not uncommon to be offered tea even in shops. They’re also really fun. Since we happened to be visiting on the rare occasion of snow, we witnessed several grown men and women throwing snowballs at each other on the street. We were even invited to join on one occasion. There’s something about that that’s very wholesome and sweet. On the other hand, it’s hard not to question people’s kindness and friendliness for self-interest. Are they just trying to get me to buy something or sit down to eat or leave a higher tip? In many cases, the answer is yes. And you can see the stark difference between how people treat you in tourist places compared to how baristas and servers behave in regular neighborhoods. There’s much more standoffishness, which I frankly prefer. I think being around people who are always up for a chat would be exhausting to me.
Cost and value
Inflation has hit Istanbul hard. The cost of even a one-bedroom is up to €1000 a month, which is absolutely insane when you consider the fact that the average monthly salary is a little over €500. Food prices are equally inflated especially the closer to city center you get. And the downside of that is that even as a local, you sometimes want to go to the fancy cocktail bar or a nice restaurant in the popular part of town that is overrun by tourists, but it’s almost prohibitively expensive. All this to say, Istanbul is a poor value as a place to live. You’re paying Berlin prices but not getting a Berlin salary (roughly €4,580 per month). And frankly, it’s downright insulting to pay nearly €20 for kebab in any part of any city.
Food
Istanbul benefits from being at a crossroads of many cultures, so there’s a lot of great food beyond local flavors. In Istanbul, we had some of the best pasta and some of the best cocktails I’ve ever had, fresh seafood, and delectable grilled meat that you can taste the coal on. On the other hand, I do think that Turkish food, which is ubiquitous, is not worth the cost. Sure, I can get it from a stand or a hole-in-the-wall like the Anthony Bourdain-famous Durumzade, but if I want to sit down for a proper meal, the prices are outrageous and the quality is the same as if I had gone to a food cart. This means that eating out in Istanbul would be only something I could afford to do on a special occasion. And that’s kind of depressing. And I’m going to be honest, as novel and cute as it is to get tea and baklava after every meal, I don’t want that all the time. Even as a visitor, that got old.
Safety
Safety is a major factor in living anywhere, but I felt keenly aware of it in Istanbul. It probably has about the same day-to-day threat of petty theft as most major cities, although I felt safer in Istanbul than I did in certain parts of Paris. As long as you have your wits about you, I do think the city is generally safe, even if it’s late and even if you’re a woman. However, historically Istanbul has a higher-than-average threat of terrorism than other European capitals. There were as many as 5-6 terror attacks some years including an airport, a night club, and the popular Istiklal Avenue. This is something that is evident in the heavy police presence, the metal detectors you have to pass to enter malls or covered markets, and the extra security at the airport. I’m a nervous enough person without having the constant reminder that I could die at any minute. So I don’t love that.
Total livability score 1/10
The thought of living in Istanbul gives me more anxiety than it does positive feelings. None of the good can outweigh the exceptionally bad. Between the crazy cost, a heightened sense of suspicion, and the exhaustion of constantly having to talk to over-friendly strangers, I think I would give living in Istanbul a pass.
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