Part Europe part Asia, Istanbul is a historical powerhouse that is full of ancient architectural treasures. It’s easy to see from its grandeur (and from the non-stop parade of freighters on the Bosphorus) why it was the imperial capital for the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. But all of this cultural significance comes at a price for anyone wanting to see a bit of the history for themselves. Most of Istanbul’s top sights have been commodified to death, and the price is steeper than you think if you’re not careful.
Hagia Sophia
Dating back to 537 AD, this was the largest cathedral in the world for a thousand years and the largest dome in the world until bigger buildings were erected – namely Seville Cathedral and St. Peter’s Basilica. It didn’t become a mosque until the fall of Constantinople when the Ottomans took over and re-purposed it. It is still an active mosque in present day and visitors are not allowed on the prayer floor. Nonetheless, from the second story hallway, you can still admire the Hagia’s grandeur and art – some of which has been preserved for thousands of years.
While this is all very impressive, tourists are often left with sticker shock over the cost of visiting the mosque – €25 per person – especially considering that you can visit most of the mosques in Istanbul for free. You’ll find that getting a ticket can be a bit of a mindfuck, something done by design to extort the maximum amount of money out of you. The only place to officially buy tickets online bundles the Hagia visit with the Hagia Sophia History and Experience Museum, which doubles the cost to €50. But unbeknownst to us, this can also happen at the box office if you’re not careful. Pro tip: ask “what do you mean by full access ticket?” or you will probably be sold the additional museum visit.
The Hagia Sophia History and Experience Museum
Since we had already inadvertently paid for it, we went ahead and visited the corresponding Hagia Sophia History museum. The first part of the visit is a fully guided tour that delves into the history of the building and the empires which rose and fell around it over the years. If you’re short on time, this can be frustrating because you have to wait for a tour to start and the group must move together through the presentation.
If I’m being honest, it provided quite a bit of historical context that made me feel like I should have done the museum before entering the mosque. On the other hand, I don’t think it was €25 worth of context. I didn’t even think the Hagia itself was worth €25. So make of that what you will.
Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque, officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, which sits just opposite the Hagia Sophia is one of the must-see sights of Istanbul. For one, it’s free to visit, so there are no extortionate entrance or long lines to buy tickets. But more importantly, the interior is stunning. It may not be as big or old as the Hagia, but if you’re only looking to be awed by a beautiful and intricate space, it is far more worth your time. I happen to think it’s more beautiful from outside too. The visitor entrance is through the courtyard to the rear right-hand side. It’s typically open from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm with intermittent closures during prayer times.
Topkapi Palace
One of the most expensive things to do in Istanbul but also one of the most worthwhile is Topkapi Palace Museum. The whopping 2000 Turkish Lira (just over €50) price covers the full ticket including a visit to the Hagia Irene and the Harem, which are both on site of this former royal palace. The Hagia Irene looks a little worse for the wear, but the Harem is worth the cost. In all, the palace is a massive four-courtyard behemoth, with each room more beautiful than the last. It is large enough that it takes at least 3-4 hours to see in its entirety. An audio guide is included in the price of the ticket, which you can pick up after you buy your tickets.
I recommend starting in the fourth courtyard and moving forward, since the rear of the palace is where the most interesting and beautiful rooms are. Much of the first and second courtyards are dedicated to small exhibits like royal clothing and weaponry, so if you run out of steam, that’s probably something you might not mind skipping. On the other hand, you definitely don’t want to skip the Sultan or Queen Mother’s chambers which are most jaw-droppingly beautiful. Don’t worry, there’s a drink stand and a small café where you can get refreshments and some snacks to keep you going.
Galata Tower
Of all the popular things to do in Istanbul, Galata Tower is probably by far the most egregious. Located across the Golden Horn from all the mentioned attractions, the watchtower offers spectacular views of the Sultanahmet district and the Bosphorus. If you don’t include the lines to get a ticket and the line to get up the elevator, this probably takes all of 15-20 minutes to do. The entrance is €30, so that’s a pretty pricey 15 minutes.
However, you’ll notice that though they list the price in euros, they only accept lira… and when you pay in lira, they’ll throw in the audio guide and free shitty headphones for an extra €8 without your request or consent. There is a little exhibit in the tower, but let’s be real – the main draw is the open-air view from the top of the tower. So I would venture to say you don’t want to buy the audio guide and accompanying cheap headphones. If you want to see the view at sunset, prepare for even longer lines. Everyone will have the same idea.
Grand Bazaar
Istanbul’s famed Grand Bazaar remains one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world. Don’t let that scare you. If you’re expecting an endless labyrinth like in Marrakech or Fes with hordes of people trying to pull you into their shops, you might be pleasantly surprised. Yes, salespeople will try to lure you, but they only show interest if you appear to show interest in their wares. Otherwise, they’re too busy drinking tea and looking at their phones. Though it’s a beautiful place, as someone not in the market for fake designer handbags and gold chains, I found the Grand Bazaar to be kind of disappointing. Any local souvenir you might be after will certainly be cheaper elsewhere and pretty much available on any street corner.
If you are planning to shop in the Grand Bazaar, remember there’s a reason why there are no prices listed… the price is negotiable. And if you don’t haggle, you’re going to pay the highest possible price.
It’s safe to say that no first-time visit to Istanbul is complete without enjoying many of these sights, but avoiding being upsold can help you get the most value out of them. Don’t let Istanbul’s institutionalized scammery ruin your holiday.
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